SOWF #8: Clos du Soleil

Another short hop along Upper Bench Road to Clos du Soleil. Many wine shops have dedicated staff whose only job is to pour. Other wineries are smaller and require more of a "chief cook and bottle-washer" approach to getting all the work done. You know you're at one of the smaller operations when it takes a couple of minutes for someone to come to the tasting room from out in the field. I always feel a little guilty for interrupting their work, but at the same time you know you're going to get an opportunity to talk to someone who knows the intimate details about how the wines were made. Such was the case at Clos du Soleil, where the vineyard manager Jean-Félix arrived and was able to give us a few insights that you can probably only get from someone with a little dirt under their fingernails. This winery appears less concerned about making a big splash and is focused instead on slowly but surely producing the best possible wines. From what I tasted I think they're on the right track.

• Pinot Blanc 2011 ($19)

Grown near Middle Bench Road in Keremeos by the Baessler family, this fruity and fresh Pinot Blanc opens with a nose of delicate tropical fruit on a backdrop of orchard apple and citrus. The palate is bright and clean, shows great balance and body, and has a pleasantly crisp, refreshing finish – perfect for spring and summer time patio fare or enjoy as a refreshing pre-dinner interlude.  

89 points. Dry, no finish, delicious.

• Capella 2010 ($25)

The 2010 Capella is elegant and rich, demonstrating the classic notes of this French influenced blend. The nose starts with refreshing gooseberry, lemon rind and honeysuckle. As the bouquet opens, the crisp scents of pear and star fruit join in. In the mouth, the subtle flavours are clean and fresh, adding depth to the aromas.

88 points. Bordeaux Blanc blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Semillon. This tasted off - I think the bottle was open too long and the wine was oxidized. What we tasted does not match the description above. I'd like to try this again to make sure.

• Fumé Blanc 2010 ($23)

Inspired by the traditional barrel-fermented white wine from the Bordeaux region, our Fumé Blanc is a classic old-world styled white with a new world taste. It opens up on a sweet note of pineapple, vanilla and toast, followed by hints of citrus, orchard apple, honey-comb and the classic mineral touch. In the mouth it is clean, smooth and exhibits a nice balance between bright acidity, oak nuances, and residual sweetness. It finishes long with a slight grassy note from the Sauvignon Blanc grape that is both refreshing and satisfying.

89 points. Recently bottled so a little bottle shock but a very nice wine. Kris really liked it so we purchased this one.

• Rosé 2011 ($18)

Created with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this rosé is the perfect everyday wine. The nose begins with sun-kissed fresh raspberries, tangy cranberry and vanilla bean. On the palate, the sweet fruit motif continues with the addition of strawberry. A full-body mouth feel and long length make this a perfect food wine. It is summer in a bottle. 

89 points. Fairly complex for a Rosé. Bought it too.

• Célestiale 2009 ($23)

This juicy and fruit-forward Bordeaux-style red has a Canadian twist of Cabernet Franc and Merlot dominance. It was matured for 18 months in French oak which gives it a glimmer of spice. It softly opens up to bright notes of strawberry, raspberry, sweet red cherries and hints of coffee and chocolate. In the mouth it’s juicy, almost refreshing, and is nicely framed by just the right amount of well integrated tannins and weight. There is great balance and a long finish.

90 points. Bought this as well.

• Signature 2009 ($40)

The use of all 5 red Bordeaux varietals and maturation for 18 months in French oak before bottling without fining or filtering gives this wine great complexity. It greets the nose with vibrant strawberries and blackberry with hints of sandalwood and spice. As it opens dark cherries, plums and soft hints of caramel, espresso and chocolate come into play. When first tasted, the fresh fruit is echoed on a soft tannin base. After decanting, a balanced yet solid tannin structure frames the fruit and the aromas intensify. This wine shows promising longevity in the cellar.

90 points. Nice, peppery, delicious.

• Saturn (375 ml) 2010 ($29)

The Sauvignon Blanc grapes for this Select Late Harvest delicacy were intentionally picked overripe in the cold of November. Inspired by the great dessert wine tradition of the Sauternes region of the Bordeaux, this wine exhibits a lovely pale golden hue in the glass. Enticing aromas of ripe pineapple, apricot, honey and citrus rind are followed by a long, hypnotic finish adding toffee and a suggestion of fresh sage. This luscious, balanced creation will pair nicely with foie-gras, creamy blue cheese or a delicate dessert

89 points. Late harvest but not as sweet as you would expect.
             

Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2009

We've come to rely on these grapefruity New Zealand sauvignon blancs like Oyster Bay and Kim Crawford as our go-to whites when we want something tasty and not overly expensive. There are a few that are on the cheaper end like Stoneleigh that are noticeably a point or two below the bar - still very drinkable, but it feels like a compromise instead of a treat.

Monkey Bay might be the least expensive of the Oyster Bay middle tier. It is tart but balanced, having the signature taste of the kiwi Malborough region of grapefruit and gooseberry. But it's acidity is not overpowering, even after a couple of glasses without food (trust me). It would pair well with shellfish, pasta in white sauce, or dubliner cheese (a sharp old white cheddar flavour).

We now buy Barefoot pinot grigio as our cheap quaffable house wine, and Monkey Bay as our standby when we want something a little nicer. And it keeps us from tearing through our Okanagan stash we just hauled back last week. A very good wine at a very reasonable price.

89 points. $12 at Superstore.

Santa Isabela Sauvignon Blanc

A well-constructed wine; I keep thinking of it in terms of what it is not. It's not very acidic for a sauv blanc, it's not too fruity or perfumy. It is quite drinkable. Maybe some hints of grapefruit/citrus and even mango, but really it's very subtle. Probably good with cheese or chicken dishes. A good wine for $15-18, outstanding at under $10.

88 points. 9.99.

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 2008

In a word - wow. This New Zealand malborough reminds me of Oyster Bay, but with perfectly balanced acid, aroma and flavour. It also reminds me of a couple of Okanagan favorites: Greata Ranch Ehrenfelser, and Wild Goose God's Head Reisling. This one has the same fruity bouquet but is more restrained. Some lime, grapefruit and violet I think. I wish it was summer and I had a bottle of this on ice in the cooler on the patio.

Kris thinks this may be the best white she's ever tasted. That's quite possible.

92 points. $19.99 at Superstore.