SOWF #11: Hester Creek

I knew this would happen. I knew if I paused for a bit then it would turn into days and weeks, and now my memory is starting to fade. So I'll be mostly relying on notes from here on.

Hester Creek was our next stop (after skipping Gehringer for the first time... ever). Hester has completed a large amount of expensive-looking renovations and expansions in recent years. We also missed it the first time the new tasting room was open about three years ago, because we drove up to the old wine shop and it was closed. We almost left but then we noticed a much larger building about fifty feet above us on the next plateau. It is stunning: a long wooden tasting bar, large store with wine and related goodies, a deluxe kitchen with room for about a dozen people, a barrel room (a sort of mini-cellar on the main floor, cool and dim with about 40 or so barrels) and a private dining/tasting area with a giant table that looks like something a French king would be comfortable with. There is also one of the best patios out front with a stunning view of the south Okanagan valley. There is not a single thing that was overlooked in the design, and everything is luxurious. But for all that, it doesn't feel exclusive or snobby in the least. The friendly, down-to-earth professionals pouring wine probably should get some credit for that.

According to my notes, I tasted ten wines here. Overall, Hester Creek offers good to very good wines at reasonable prices, and I preferred the reds over their whites.

• Pinot Gris 2011 ($17)

This Pinot Gris is a stunning example of our terroir, grown on both the east and west South Okanagan benches. Hallmark crisp acidity and tree fruit aromas reflect the land where the grapes are grown and mark it as different from its European relatives. Try this refreshing white with salmon flavoured with lemon and dill, pea or asparagus risottos, or a mustard tarragon cream sauce over chicken.  

Found this one a little musty - the use Stelvin so it's not the cork. 87 points.

 

• Pinot Blanc 2011 ($16)

Hosting some of the estate's oldest vines, our east-facing bench is exemplary for Pinot Blanc. Cooler late afternoons and nights bring about crisp acidity and fruit flavours. Fresh and ready to drink, this wine is perfect chilled for summer sipping or to pair with oysters in the winter. Fruity with green apple, peach, melon and honey, the wine gives way to underlying balanced herbal notes. Enjoy this full BC classic with local fare: fresh BC spot prawns in a bright lemon spaghetti, organic local roasted chicken with garden herbs, and fresh Pacific oysters on the half shell. 

87 points.

• Character White 2011 ($20)

Character emerges form our land, and is vibrantly present in this lush white. Made from 100% estate grown grapes, this wine is a true representation of Hester Creek. Fragrance jumps out of the glass with notes of green apple, peach, herbs, and mineral aromas. Made in an off-dry style, this aromatic white is perfect for calamari, fresh oysters, or spicy Asian fare like Pad Thai or Indian Kormas. 

Sweeter, great chilled patio wine. 88 points.

• Trebbiano 2011 ($23)

The Okanagan's only Trebbiano, these vines are some of the oldest on the estate. Made with selected yeasts and a cool ferment, the resulting wine is fruity and crisp. The nose has apple, citrus and passion fruit, with mineral and grapefruit notes on the palate. Enjoy with Asian food like Pad Thai, spicy barbequed chicken, or an arrabiata pasta. 

No nose at all! (Not good or bad, just very unusual.) 88 points.

• Selected Barrels Merlot 2010 ($19)

This special wine reveals how well Merlot has acclimatized to our environment, with great concentration of fruit. Aged in specially selected barrels, this Merlot is perfect for every occasion: a hostess gift at a dinner party, paired with summer burgers, or just as a week-night treat. Once uncorked, this deep rich Merlot reveals aromas of blackberry, plum, and black cherries. On the palate, discover plum and cherry notes with a hint of toffee. Smooth tannins and a full mouthfeel round out this special vintage. Pair this ruby-red gem with hearty winter stews, braised lamb shanks, bison burgers, roast pork with apple and sage, and grilled sirloin steak. 

Medium dry, no finish, very tasty with red fruit and plum. 89 points.

• Selected Barrels Cabernet Merlot 2010 ($19)

Aged in specially selected barrels, this versatile Bordeaux-style blend embraces all the characteristics of the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot grapes grown on our estate vineyard. The blackberry and blackcurrant flavours of the Cabernet are enhanced by the soft muted flavours of plum and black cherry found in our Merlot. Blended together before aging to ensure proper marrying, this Cabernet Merlot is loaded with savoury plum, currant, and spicy notes. Enjoy with grilled sirloin steak, falling-off-the-bone ribs, or with a burger. 

88 points. 

• Character Red 2010 ($20)

Character emerges from our land and is vibrantly present in this rich red. Made from 100% estate-grown grapes, the Character Red is a true representation of Hester Creek. A blend of Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, this wine has rich notes of coffee, spice, plum, wild cherry, and toasty oak. Ready to age for two to five years, savour this blend with grilled rosemary lamb chops, a medium rare steak, or fall-off-the-bone ribs. 

One of their best - a peppery, earthy blend. 89 points.

• Reserve Merlot 2008 ($27)

This Reserve Merlot is ready to age five to 10 years. Old vines produce blockbuster wines and the vines chosen to produce this reserve wine are no exception - over 35 years old and they are still growing strong. Strong notes of mocha, plum, and a hint of toffee create a perfect pairing for rosemary garlic roasted chicken, barbequed rack of lamb, rich beef curries, or dark chocolate mousse. 

Very smooth. 88 points.

• Reserve Merlot 2007 ($30)

This Reserve Merlot is ready to age five to 10 years. Old vines produce blockbuster wines and the vines chosen to produce this reserve wine are no exception - over 35 years old and they are still growing strong. Strong notes of mocha, plum, and a hint of toffee create a perfect pairing for rosemary garlic roasted chicken, barbequed rack of lamb, rich beef curries, or dark chocolate mousse. 

 A bonus tasting to compare to the previous Merlot. Unfortunately I think this one had oxidized so I'm won't give it a score. Apart from that I sensed it was quite different from the 2008.

• The Judge  ($45)

Extensive barrel aging develops a wine that is complex, big, and bold. Made from 100% estate fruit, this wine showcases the best pf Hester Creek's estate and the Golden Mile vineyards. Full mouth feel, with notes of rich dark fruit, are well integrated with tannin structure that shows the depth of the wine through the fruit. Notes of spice, berries, herbs, caramel, black pepper, and cherry combine with a long finish of plum and cassis for a wine that is meant to age. Try it with grilled pork tenderloin, oven roasted leg of lamb, or aged cheeses.

As it wasn't too busy and we were asking good questions and generally being charming, we were offered a barrel tasting of this one. You need to have a little imagination when tasting from the barrel as the wine isn't ready yet. This is already a delicious and complex wine, and I think it will become noticeable better as the various flavours mingle and mature. 89 points now, probably more after a couple of years in a bottle.

SOWF #2: Nk'Mip

Nk'Mip (pronounced in-ka-meep) is a desert cultural centre, luxury resort and spa, golf course, winery and an aboriginal success story all at once. We'll focus on the wine, but the Nk'Mip Resort website has lots of interesting info. We even looked into investing in one of the Spirit Ridge strata suites a while back.

Nk'Mip manages to win a fair bit of recognition for their wines. Overall I find them good but nothing that has ever knocked my socks off. Generally at Nk'Mip, the more unpronouncable the name the more expensive the wine. We hadn't been here for a few years and things change, so it's a good idea to go back to the source once in a while to see (and taste) what's going on. Again, winemaker's comments in regular text, my notes and scores in italic.

• Pinot Blanc 2010 ($17)

This wine is bright and lively with an explosion of citrus and orchard notes followed by a crisp, racy finish. Generous notes of apple with an underlying mineral nuance complete this well-balanced wine.

88 points.

• Riesling 2010 ($18)

Classic granny smith apple and crisp, fresh citrus notes give way to a gentle layering of luscious orchard fruit and honeydew melon. Dry in style, the flavours are well balanced and are supported by a crisp, refreshing finish. 

88 points.

• Chardonnay 2010 ($17)

The Chardonnay grapes were stainless steel fermented and 40% of the vintage was aged in French oak barrels for 10 months while 60% remained in stainless steel fermentors to retain a crisp, fruit forward flavour with a smooth finish.

Fragrant granny smith apple and summer fruit are joined by fresh pineapple and melon layers that lead into a rounded expression of butterscotch and vanilla bean.

88 points.

• Pinot Noir 2010 ($20)

The inviting nose displays elements of luscious Okanagan black cherry and plum with a hint of rosemary spice. The soft tannic structure is very approachable with substantial berry and spice flavours despite its delicacy. A liquid silk texture leaves a soft finish on the palate.

88 points.

• Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2009 ($25)

Extended lees contact gives depth and complexity with rich and nutty flavour, offering lots of caramel, marzipan and pear. Enticing and aromatic with subtle layering of citrus is followed by a lingering mineral finish. 

89 points. The best wine I tasted here, almost a 90 - delicious!

• Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2008 ($30)

This Meritage is a blend of 69% Merlot, 28.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2.5% Cabernet Franc grapes. This wine exhibits an intense ruby colour with aromas and flavours of mint, chocolate, tobacco and cassis with a well-structured palate and a long toasty finish.

89 points.

• Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($30)

Rich with dried black fruit and cassis wrapped in toasty spicy cedar, this fully structured Cabernet Sauvignon leads the palate to contemplate complex flavours of berry, vanilla, coffee, capsicum and cherry.  

88 points.

• Mer'r'iym 2008 ($50)

Mer’r’iym is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot epitomizing balance, respect and dedication. The 2008 Mer’r’iym Meritage is the result of our tireless pursuit of excellence at Nk’Mip vineyards. We combined only the best blocks of grapes with some of the finest French and American oak barrels in an effort to produce a wine of genuine elegance and finesse. 

89 points.

Burrowing Owl Meritage 2005

Brought by some friends to dinner tonight. I wish we drank like this all the time. I could get used to it, but would probably end up in the poorhouse in a year or two.

From BOV's website: 2005 Meritage - Aromas of heady, smoky, mixtures of violets, cassis, blackberry, plums, vanilla, cloves, and toasty oak. On the palate, the wine is firm yet subtle, offering big, rich flavours, seamless texture and tremendous persistence of flavours.

I don't know which year we drank, but from the different tasting notes on their website I'm guessing the 2005. It wasn't too big and bold, and had a good - OK, great - balance. I've had a few different Burrowing Owl that ranged from really good to Oh My God, and this one was up there in a subtle but substantial way. A great partner to our meat-and-potatoes, but would probably be good with most anything remotely savoury, or on its own.

Remember: rhymes with "heritage". Nothing French about it.

91 points. Price unknown, but likely over $40.