May 16, 2012

SOWF #5: Eau Vivre

Our next stop on our Similkameen journey was Eau Vivre. This is a very unassuming little winery, presumably a husband and wife operation although I have very little background on this place. I think they only make four wines, and we got to try them all. Holy smoke - what a find! And for around twenty bucks these were some of the very best value wines we came across.

Our rule of thumb is to try to purchase one bottle per winery, since they all have to be brought back on the plane. We bought three here, everything but the Gewurz (I just can't bring myself to call it "goo"). We have a family vacation planned for the Okanagan in July; we may just have to drag the kids out to Cawston to scoop up a few more bottles.


  • Gewurztraminer 2009 ($17)
Light in colour, with intense nose of white flowers, orange blossoms and candied fruit.  The palate is equally balanced with soft acids and lush fruit mouth feel that is produced in the classic dry but fruity style.  Designed with medium body and plush rich fruit this wine has the profile of a much sweeter wine.  This small lot production of 2009 Gewurztraminer is made from 100% Similkameen grapes.  With only 200 cases produced, this very popular wine is building a following of fans and will surely sell out.

89 points. Floral but not syrupy. Fresh.

  • Chardonnay 2008 ($18)
A nice pale straw colour shows that this wine has a great aging potential. The nose smells of honey, with a baked pastry component, leading to apple pie and pear. Hints of citrus and stone fruit on the nose as well. The palette is intense and balanced, with apple and lemon curd, white peach and nectarines, showing a full round mouth feel but enough acidity to give it good length and freshness. Very versatile food wine, that can pair well with seafood, but has the acidity to cut through creamy dishes as well. 

90 points. Complex, sweet and tart, bright, good acidity balance.

  • Pinot Noir 2008 ($19)
On the nose it is constantly developing, starting with typical cherry and cranberry before leading into more earthy tones and the darker side of this wonderful variety. The longer this is open the more complex it becomes as the fruit nose subsides and the leathery and soy notes come forward. Built with some considerable structure, despite having very little oak on nose or palette. The wine has great intensity and length, tannins taking the fruit and acidity long into the finish. Great balance. Drinking well now and will age wonderfully for years to come. 

91 points. Only two other wineries had a 91 point wine on our tour - Fairview and Laughing Stock. That's pretty exclusive company for Eau Vivre. "Warm, smooth, chocolate and sweet tones. Wow." (That's a direct quote from my notes.) A preposterous value.

  • Cabernet Franc 2009 ($22)
Fermented on the skins for 18 days to extract deep dark color, this wine was aged in French Oak barrels. The aromas boldly convey the grape variety's floral and herbal character, in this case suggesting tobacco and spice. On the palate spice and pepper enhance those characteristics and finish dry. This wines style has serious charm and complexity and will excite fans of cool-climate Cab Franc fans. Only 270 cases produced in 2009 from 100% Okanagan Valley grapes.

90 points.
      

SOWF #4: Seven Stones

I can't remember the last time we visited the Similkameen valley, but it's been a few years. It's seems like a long way to go but it's only 20 minutes west of Osoyoos on highway 3, and not much longer to drive from Keremeos up to Penticton. There are maybe ten wineries out here, including two fruit wineries. Some of the best wines we tasted the entire weekend were from Similkameen, and I suspect they might be growing grapes that are as good or better than the Okanagan. If you've never been out here, or it's been a while, you won't regret taking the extra few minutes drive to check out the wineries in Cawston and Keremeos.

A quick travel note: if you're driving west from Osoyoos, you have to check out Spotted Lake about ten minutes along the Crowsnest. This is a small lake with high concentrations of minerals and salt in the water that somehow form large circles on the surface. It's truly unique and worth a stop for a picture or two.

Seven Stones was the first of our six stops on our loop. There is a whole story about the seven stones of the Similkameen, but the winery website is down right now so I don't have the details. Something about glaciers and native legends. Instead of doing any serious research, I stole a photo from another website of the mural in the Seven Stones wineshop showing the seven stones on a map of the valley. Now then, on to business: the wines we tried here were mostly outstanding. I can't explain why but I got the feeling that the terroir here produces some outstanding fruit. The combination and complexity of flavours here was quite amazing.

  • Pinot Rosé 2010 ($19)
Intense strawberry aromas; a delicate balance of citrus and exotic fruit flavors on the palate along with a pleasing natural acidity and minerality and a soft dry finish. This wine is reminiscent of the Rosés found in the south of France. Perfect for the deck!

88 points. I found this one a bit musty, with some grapefruit in addition to the strawberry.

  • Chardonnay 2009 ($25)
The 2009 vintage is a bit softer and creamier than the 2008 vintage yet it retains the same vivid mouth-feel and delicate balance of citrus and tropical fruit flavors permeated with an earthy minerality that had become the signature of our Chardonnays. Sur-lies aging and barrel fermentation give this wine a luscious toasty and buttery finish.

90 points. If I recall there were two different yeasts involved in the making. I thought I tasted some pineapple. Long, lingering, creamy finish. Beautiful. We brought back this one.

  • Row 128 Merlot 2009 ($25)
Aged for 17 months in French and American oak barrels Row 128 Merlot offers seductive aromas of cherry, mint, olive and leather followed by a soft mouth-feel and flavors of plum, chocolate and blueberry .The finish is smooth and long lasting. 

90 points. Wish we'd bought this one too. A very unique and interesting Merlot. I did indeed taste most of the flavours listed above, including olive.

  • Cabernet Franc 2009 ($28)
The nose features fragrances of plum, black pepper, raspberry and toasty vanilla. Layers of elegant and well structured flavors of  raspberry , chocolate and coffee on the mid-palate are followed by a soft spicy finish.  Aged 17 months in new French oak barrels.

89 points. Feisty, peppery, lively, bold.

  • Meritage 2008 ($32)
This blend consists of 58% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot aged 17 months in new and 1 year old French oak barrels. The 2008 Meritage has round juicy flavors, a soft velvety mid-palate and an elegant finish that is prolonged by fine grained tannins and reveals hints of chocolate, espresso and raspberry. 

89 points.

  • Syrah 2009 ($35)
Enticing aromas of smoked meat and white pepper on the nose; layers of ripe blackberry, spicy licorice and bittersweet chocolate on the palate; well integrated tannins and a long smooth finish. 17 months in new French oak barrels. Small lot production 

88 points. Kris liked this more than I did, likely the pepper. I remember it tasting like tart cherry juice.
           

May 15, 2012

SOWF #3: Young & Wyse

It's not the Young & Wyse Winery, or Cellars, or Vineyard: it's a Collection. Hmm. Well, seems a little vague but I guess it's different. A partnership on several levels between Stephen Wyse, whose family runs Burrowing Owl, and Michelle Young. Fortunately their surnames form an interesting and provocative combination, unlike the ill-fated partnership of John Old and Susan Idiotic. Apart from the name, the wines are terrific and it's worth a visit to the south end of Osoyoos if you're in the area.

I have to confess that even though I have a few notes, I don't seem to have written down any scores for the four wines we tasted. It was not even noon when we tasted. We purchased the Amber and the Cab Sauv. When we open them up I may come back and update this entry. But my recollection is that all of them were very good, in the 89 point range. Here are the winemakers' notes.

  • Pinot Gris 2011 ($20)
An intriguing nose that combines cantaloupe and apple blossom aromas with hints of stonefruit, citrus and dried summer herbs. The palate is dry with crisp, refreshing acidity launching into an intense combination of lemon, nectarine, apple, grapefruit and a complex white pepper note that lingers on the long finish.

  • Amber 2011 ($20)
This special blend is named after our daughter Amber. The jasmine and rose petal aromatics of Viognier and Gewurztraminer combine intriguingly with the citrus, grapefruit and anise notes of Pinot Gris. Aromas of orange, cinnamon, and melon add further complexity. The palate is dry combining apple, pineapple and apricot flavours with lemon and orange notes. The finish is long and complex with essence of gingerbread and minerality.

  • Merlot 2010 ($22)
A bouquet of fruit, floral and spice aromas, displaying black cherry, red raspberry, lilac, exotic spice and even a touch of minerality. On the mouth, the wine coats and lingers with a sumptuous viscosity and beautifully ripe tannins. Bottled without fining or filtration.

  • Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($27)
This Cabernet has distinct flavours of black currant, blueberry, blackberry and cassis with enticing aromas of mocha and nutmeg. Notes of smoke, cedar and tobacco round out the lingering finish. Bottled without fining or filtration.

[Edit May 16: Well, that didn't take long. We opened this up last night. A very nice cab, robust but smooth and it does indeed have a long finish as advertised. If we didn't already drink it, it would improve with age. 90 points.]

SOWF #2: Nk'Mip

Nk'Mip (pronounced in-ka-meep) is a desert cultural centre, luxury resort and spa, golf course, winery and an aboriginal success story all at once. We'll focus on the wine, but the Nk'Mip Resort website has lots of interesting info. We even looked into investing in one of the Spirit Ridge strata suites a while back.

Nk'Mip manages to win a fair bit of recognition for their wines. Overall I find them good but nothing that has ever knocked my socks off. Generally at Nk'Mip, the more unpronouncable the name the more expensive the wine. We hadn't been here for a few years and things change, so it's a good idea to go back to the source once in a while to see (and taste) what's going on. Again, winemaker's comments in regular text, my notes and scores in italic.

  • Pinot Blanc 2010 ($17)
This wine is bright and lively with an explosion of citrus and orchard notes followed by a crisp, racy finish. Generous notes of apple with an underlying mineral nuance complete this well-balanced wine.

88 points.

  • Riesling 2010 ($18)
Classic granny smith apple and crisp, fresh citrus notes give way to a gentle layering of luscious orchard fruit and honeydew melon. Dry in style, the flavours are well balanced and are supported by a crisp, refreshing finish. 

88 points.


  • Chardonnay 2010 ($17)
The Chardonnay grapes were stainless steel fermented and 40% of the vintage was aged in French oak barrels for 10 months while 60% remained in stainless steel fermentors to retain a crisp, fruit forward flavour with a smooth finish.

Fragrant granny smith apple and summer fruit are joined by fresh pineapple and melon layers that lead into a rounded expression of butterscotch and vanilla bean.


88 points.


  • Pinot Noir 2010 ($20)
The inviting nose displays elements of luscious Okanagan black cherry and plum with a hint of rosemary spice. The soft tannic structure is very approachable with substantial berry and spice flavours despite its delicacy. A liquid silk texture leaves a soft finish on the palate.

88 points.


  • Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2009 ($25)
Extended lees contact gives depth and complexity with rich and nutty flavour, offering lots of caramel, marzipan and pear. Enticing and aromatic with subtle layering of citrus is followed by a lingering mineral finish. 

89 points. The best wine I tasted here, almost a 90 - delicious!


  • Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2008 ($30)
This Meritage is a blend of 69% Merlot, 28.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2.5% Cabernet Franc grapes. This wine exhibits an intense ruby colour with aromas and flavours of mint, chocolate, tobacco and cassis with a well-structured palate and a long toasty finish.

89 points.


  • Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($30)
Rich with dried black fruit and cassis wrapped in toasty spicy cedar, this fully structured Cabernet Sauvignon leads the palate to contemplate complex flavours of berry, vanilla, coffee, capsicum and cherry.  

88 points.


  • Mer'r'iym 2008 ($50)
Mer’r’iym is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot epitomizing balance, respect and dedication. The 2008 Mer’r’iym Meritage is the result of our tireless pursuit of excellence at Nk’Mip vineyards. We combined only the best blocks of grapes with some of the finest French and American oak barrels in an effort to produce a wine of genuine elegance and finesse. 

89 points.

SOWF #1: Moon Curser

(Spring Okanagan Wine Festival, by the way.)

We booked an early morning flight since it was cheaper; we arrived just before 7am. Since not much is going on winery-wise at this time of day, we decided to head south to Osoyoos. Most wineries are open from 10am to 5 or 6 in the afternoon. We would arrive in time to have breakfast and plan our attack. First up: Moon Curser. 

Moon Curser was formerly known as Twisted Tree. I just assumed that someone sold to someone else, but I just learned from John Schreiner's blog that actually it's the same owners. They found the old name was being confused with two other Okanagan vineyards, Tangled Vines and Oliver Twist. The new name is inspired by the cross-border gold smuggling that went on under cover of darkness years ago. This is fine except the labels all have a Halloween, howling coyote theme that sort of confuses their brand.

The tasting room (which just opened May 1st) is stunning. One of many new and expensive-looking wine shops we visited, this one has a huge window looking west over Osoyoos and the lake. Generally the wines here were very good, the Petit Verdot being the only one I found less than average (and this is a varietal that is mostly used in blends).All notes in regular text are from the winemaker; if I have anything to add it will be in italics. Scores are mine alone.

  • Afraid of the Dark 2011 ($22)
Afraid of the Dark is a blend of Marsanne (42%), Roussanne (33%) and Chardonnay (25%). Grown on our Class 1 home vineyard on Osoyoos East Bench, the Marsanne and Roussanne are made from vines in their 7th leaf. The rare Muscat clone of Chardonnay is grown on a tiny one acre block on the west side of Osoyoos Lake.

This is a dry, light to medium bodied white wine. The nose is highly aromatic with notes of nectarine, candied ginger, grapefruit and stone fruit (mainly peach and apricot). On the palate the wine is quite crisp, with stone fruit and clean bright citrus notes as the dominant notes. Some melon and mineral characteristics can also be found. The wine has a crisp finish with good finesse and length.
 
89 points.

  • Viognier 2011 ($28) 
The Viognier for this varietal bottling was grown in our Class 1 home vineyard on Osoyoos East Bench, as well as a newer, small vineyard also located on the East Bench. The wine underwent cold fermentation entirely in stainless steel in order to preserve the complexity and freshness of its fruit character. Whole bunch pressing, and slight extended skin contact on portions of the fruit contributed to the mouthfeel and flavor profile of the wine.

This is a dry, medium bodied white wine. The nose is very delicate but with pronounced peach and stone fruit notes. Floral, lemon and candied aromas round out the nose and the overall impression is that of delicate but intense character. On the palate, the acidity is in balance with the delicate character of the wine and, similar to the nose, peach and honey as well as a candied ginger impression are present. The wine has a round finish with finesse and length.

89 points: very flavourful.
  
  • Tempranillo 2010 ($29)
This wine is grown in its entirety in our Class 1 Osoyoos home vineyard planted in the spring of 2005. It was aged in 225 L American barrels, about 20% of which were new.

This is a dry, medium-bodied red wine. On the nose the characters of red cherry, violets, tobacco and vanilla can be found. The palate, similar to the nose, adds elements of black pepper, black cherry jam, leather and a bit of cedar. Rich and round, with abundant soft tannin, the wine finishes long.
  
 88 points.

  • Merlot 2010 ($25)
The bulk (over 90%) of this wine is grown in the Kelliher vineyard on Osoyoos East Bench, two properties north of our home vineyard. The wine was matured in 225 L barriques, about a third of which were new American oak.

This is a dry, medium-bodied red wine. On the nose, plum and ripe black fruit are the dominant notes, followed by coffee and dried spice characteristics. On the palate, the wine is generous, mouth filling, with both black and red cherry, vanilla and nutmeg. The finish is long, with considerable yet round and soft tannin.

88 points - robust and woody. 
  • Syrah 2010 ($25)
Our Syrah is grown in two neighboring Osoyoos East BenchVineyards, both Class 1 viticultural properties. The wine was matured in 225 L barriques, about a third of which were new oak of French and Hungarian origin.

This is a dry, medium-bodied red wine. On the nose, there is the hallmark black pepper of Okanagan Syrah accompanied by strong black cherry, sweet beet, and clove and allspice aromas. The palate is generous with rich mulberry and dried cherry flavors, along with earthy chocolate and leather notes. Tannins are smooth, and the finish is long.

89 points.

  • Border Vines 2010 ($25)
This blend of six Bordeaux varietals consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Merlot (33%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Carmenere (7%), Malbec (7%) and Petit Verdot (3%). The wine is grown in five Osoyoos East Bench vineyards, all within a short tractor-driving distance from one another.

This is a dry, medium bodied wine. The nose shows good intensity with strong elements of dark berry and typical cabernet notes of cassis and blackberry. On the palate this mouthfilling wine has good weight and intensity, with highlights of plum and spice notes, and long smooth finish.

89 points.

  • Malbec 2010 ($29)
The Malbec for this inaugural single varietal bottling was grown in a Class 1 vineyard located on Osoyoos East Bench, from vines now in their 7th leaf. The low cropping during the 2010 growing season resulted in high fruit quality at harvest, and the decision to bottle the wine on its own.

This is a dry, medium to full bodied red wine. Characters of blueberries, black cherry and plum dominate the nose. The palate follows the nose, and is full and round, and displays notes of chocolate licorice and cola. The plushness of this wine is its dominant character. Acidity and tannic structure marry well but play a background role. The finish is long and balanced, with ripe soft tannin. With its strong blueberry character this wine drinks well right out of the gate, but it could be cellared for two to four years. We recommend limited aging. With bottle age expect leather and tobacco characters to develop.

89 points. I got earthy, mushroom notes in here as well. 

  • Petit Verdot 2010 ($29)        
The Petit Verdot for this inaugural single varietal bottling was grown in a Class 1 vineyard located on Osoyoos East Bench, from vines now in their 7th leaf. The low cropping during the 2010 growing season resulted in high fruit quality at harvest, and the decision to bottle the wine on its own.

This is a dry, medium-bodied red wine. Notes of violets, both red and black currants, black cherries and raspberries dominate the nose. The palate follows the nose, and also displays some notes of licorice and cola. The acidity and the tannic structure, marry well with the predominant notes of violet and result in a wine that is powerful and elegant. The finish is long and balanced, with ripe tannin. On first release the wine drinks well, but might have a little tightness. As little as 6 months aging will be probably well rewarded. This wine will also age well over five to seven years. Expect secondary characteristics of bottle age like licorice, graphite, sweet beetroot and leather to develop.

87 points - fresh cherry, probably needs aging.

  • Dead of Night 2010 ($38)
This blend of Tannat, a noble red varietal traditionally grown in the Madiran region in the south of France, and Syrah, is grown in two Class 1 vineyards on Osoyoos East Bench, and aged in 225 L French, as well as Hungarian, oak barriques.

This is a dry, medium bodied wine. The nose displays aromas of dark cherry, prune plum and violets. Notes of pepper and tobacco can be found as well.On the palate the wine is rich but with good acidity. The palate is consistent with the nose with its cherry and plum notes, but also displays meaty and smoky characters. The finish is long and generous with impressive fine and soft tannin.

89 points. Very noticeable tannins, needs a year or at least a good aeration. Tannat - another new grape for the Wine Century Club!

May 14, 2012

Spring Okanagan Wine Festival

Just got back from the sunny Okanagan last night, after catching the second half of the Spring Wine Festival. We think we've been doing this for seven years now.

The "festival" part of it really just marks the kickoff of summer hours in tasting rooms. There are also a number of events, most of which seem to be related to food (and an excuse to overcharge). This event used to be just four days at the beginning of May; somewhere in the last few years it was expanded to a week and a half. We found touring around on Thursday and Friday that there weren't a lot of other people around. The weekend was quite busy, especially Sunday which was Mothers' Day.

Some highlights were an overdue return to the Similkameen Valley, several wineries visited for the first time, cowboy Ken from Rustico, some great stinky cheeses from Poplar Grove and Upper Bench, and Bill from Fairview going back to his house to find us a couple of bottles of The Wrath.

This was also the first year I took notes. The quality of some of the tasting notes inexplicably declined during each day, as did the quality of my handwriting. But at least I have a record of everywhere we went and what we tasted. I plan to write it all up here in the next few days, but here are the raw numbers:
  • 85 hours in the Okanagan
  • 36 wineries visited
  • 221 wines tasted
  • 60 wines brought back
  • $100 in extra baggage fees
It's a tough job, but someone has to do it.

April 20, 2012

C.R.O.W.N. 4 Results

Let me preface this by saying how wrong I was about pinot noir. I wrote that pinot noir "is tricky to pin down." Well, after tasting quite a few before and during the event, I think I can say that the grape is among the more identifiable varietals. There is still a wide range of flavours but I can taste that distinctive strawberry now.

And I think we all expanded our palates a bit. It was unintentionally challenging to find a decent pinot noir under the price limit of $22, but everyone passed the assignment with flying colours. Plus we got to use my new custom-made cloth wine bags for the tasting.

The results:

1) The People's Pinot Noir 2010, New Zealand $20.00





2) La Crema Pinot Noir 2010, Sonoma $21.90






3) Rock Wren Pinot Noir 2008, Prospect Winery, Okanagan $19.00


4) La Petite Paille Pinot Noir 2008, Little Straw, Okanagan $21.90  





5) Fat Bastard Pinot Noir 2009, France $16.00







The winner had five first-place votes, the runner-up four top rankings, so it was pretty close. The top four all scored well, with only the Fat Bastard not impressing (which surprised me since their Chardonnay is quite good). Compared to the others, La Crema was much more full-bodied and some even found it sweet. This was our entry and we lucked out that Superstore put it on sale the week of the tasting. The People's was more of a traditional pinot noir but a cut above and very engaging.

All of the New Zealand pinot noirs we researched were excellent by the way. The one we almost went with instead of La Crema was Yealands: like the winner Yealands really impresses up front and is great on its own. But for drinking with dinner I would go with La Crema. The Okanagan pinots were very good too.

In terms of learning something new and drinking good (cheap-ish) wine, the evening was a success.

March 26, 2012

2000 Zero Zero

This blog just hit 2000 pageviews today. Pretty modest, granted, but deserving of a little recognition nevertheless. I have no idea how accurate these counters are, but the stats have the top five countries as Canada, US, UK, Brazil and New Zealand in that order. But there have been hits from such unlikely places as Trinidad and Tobago, Mongolia, Cyprus, Bahrain and Vietnam. Also, the Alpha Zeta, Luigi Bosca and Nugan Durif seem to be among the most searched wines that lead people here. Thanks everyone!

Cheers.