SOWF #3: Young & Wyse

It's not the Young & Wyse Winery, or Cellars, or Vineyard: it's a Collection. Hmm. Well, seems a little vague but I guess it's different. A partnership on several levels between Stephen Wyse, whose family runs Burrowing Owl, and Michelle Young. Fortunately their surnames form an interesting and provocative combination, unlike the ill-fated partnership of John Old and Susan Idiotic. Apart from the name, the wines are terrific and it's worth a visit to the south end of Osoyoos if you're in the area.

I have to confess that even though I have a few notes, I don't seem to have written down any scores for the four wines we tasted. It was not even noon when we tasted. We purchased the Amber and the Cab Sauv. When we open them up I may come back and update this entry. But my recollection is that all of them were very good, in the 89 point range. Here are the winemakers' notes.

• Pinot Gris 2011 ($20)

An intriguing nose that combines cantaloupe and apple blossom aromas with hints of stonefruit, citrus and dried summer herbs. The palate is dry with crisp, refreshing acidity launching into an intense combination of lemon, nectarine, apple, grapefruit and a complex white pepper note that lingers on the long finish.

• Amber 2011 ($20)

This special blend is named after our daughter Amber. The jasmine and rose petal aromatics of Viognier and Gewurztraminer combine intriguingly with the citrus, grapefruit and anise notes of Pinot Gris. Aromas of orange, cinnamon, and melon add further complexity. The palate is dry combining apple, pineapple and apricot flavours with lemon and orange notes. The finish is long and complex with essence of gingerbread and minerality.

• Merlot 2010 ($22)

A bouquet of fruit, floral and spice aromas, displaying black cherry, red raspberry, lilac, exotic spice and even a touch of minerality. On the mouth, the wine coats and lingers with a sumptuous viscosity and beautifully ripe tannins. Bottled without fining or filtration.

• Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($27)

This Cabernet has distinct flavours of black currant, blueberry, blackberry and cassis with enticing aromas of mocha and nutmeg. Notes of smoke, cedar and tobacco round out the lingering finish. Bottled without fining or filtration.

[Edit May 16: Well, that didn't take long. We opened this up last night. A very nice cab, robust but smooth and it does indeed have a long finish as advertised. If we didn't already drink it, it would improve with age. 90 points.]

SOWF #2: Nk'Mip

Nk'Mip (pronounced in-ka-meep) is a desert cultural centre, luxury resort and spa, golf course, winery and an aboriginal success story all at once. We'll focus on the wine, but the Nk'Mip Resort website has lots of interesting info. We even looked into investing in one of the Spirit Ridge strata suites a while back.

Nk'Mip manages to win a fair bit of recognition for their wines. Overall I find them good but nothing that has ever knocked my socks off. Generally at Nk'Mip, the more unpronouncable the name the more expensive the wine. We hadn't been here for a few years and things change, so it's a good idea to go back to the source once in a while to see (and taste) what's going on. Again, winemaker's comments in regular text, my notes and scores in italic.

• Pinot Blanc 2010 ($17)

This wine is bright and lively with an explosion of citrus and orchard notes followed by a crisp, racy finish. Generous notes of apple with an underlying mineral nuance complete this well-balanced wine.

88 points.

• Riesling 2010 ($18)

Classic granny smith apple and crisp, fresh citrus notes give way to a gentle layering of luscious orchard fruit and honeydew melon. Dry in style, the flavours are well balanced and are supported by a crisp, refreshing finish. 

88 points.

• Chardonnay 2010 ($17)

The Chardonnay grapes were stainless steel fermented and 40% of the vintage was aged in French oak barrels for 10 months while 60% remained in stainless steel fermentors to retain a crisp, fruit forward flavour with a smooth finish.

Fragrant granny smith apple and summer fruit are joined by fresh pineapple and melon layers that lead into a rounded expression of butterscotch and vanilla bean.

88 points.

• Pinot Noir 2010 ($20)

The inviting nose displays elements of luscious Okanagan black cherry and plum with a hint of rosemary spice. The soft tannic structure is very approachable with substantial berry and spice flavours despite its delicacy. A liquid silk texture leaves a soft finish on the palate.

88 points.

• Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2009 ($25)

Extended lees contact gives depth and complexity with rich and nutty flavour, offering lots of caramel, marzipan and pear. Enticing and aromatic with subtle layering of citrus is followed by a lingering mineral finish. 

89 points. The best wine I tasted here, almost a 90 - delicious!

• Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2008 ($30)

This Meritage is a blend of 69% Merlot, 28.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2.5% Cabernet Franc grapes. This wine exhibits an intense ruby colour with aromas and flavours of mint, chocolate, tobacco and cassis with a well-structured palate and a long toasty finish.

89 points.

• Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($30)

Rich with dried black fruit and cassis wrapped in toasty spicy cedar, this fully structured Cabernet Sauvignon leads the palate to contemplate complex flavours of berry, vanilla, coffee, capsicum and cherry.  

88 points.

• Mer'r'iym 2008 ($50)

Mer’r’iym is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot epitomizing balance, respect and dedication. The 2008 Mer’r’iym Meritage is the result of our tireless pursuit of excellence at Nk’Mip vineyards. We combined only the best blocks of grapes with some of the finest French and American oak barrels in an effort to produce a wine of genuine elegance and finesse. 

89 points.

Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Never tried this wine before, so I'm opening the bottle and writing as I drink. No vague recollections: these are my immediate reactions.

Nice ruby colour. Plum and a little lavender bouquet. A bit of an edge, maybe this needs to breathe/aerate a little to soften. Tastes jammy. But firm and not too tannic. This cab would be great with beef stroganoff or spaghetti and meatballs topped with chilis. Very drinkable.

Now that's it's been out of the bottle a few minutes I'm starting to taste the chocolate notes as advertised on the back label. Not bad at all, very versatile and a good value wine.

89 points. About $16 from Costco.

Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This one wasn't on our list, but was recommended highly by the lady at Grapes and Grains where we ducked into between periods of the Oilers game. (We shouldn't have hurried back. Fire MacTavish.)

I think this wine really needs a little breathing time. Our first reaction was that it was a little too fruity, heavy on the plum or maybe some grape jelly. But after about half an hour out in the fresh air it seem to settle into a more mature, even powerful wine. Fantastic aroma - deep and rich. It's a pretty assertive cab sauv, not a superstar but an Ales Hemsky of a wine: very, very good. We drank some with chicken dinner tonight, but it would really click with red meats or pasta. Or some sharp Dubliner cheese.

We agreed on 88, but I got the last glass and it's turned into 89 points. $13.23 at Grapes and Grains.

Cono Sur Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

They seem to be quite proud of the bicycle thing at Cono Sur - it's the way their workers get to the vineyard, apparently. Ties in with the organic philosophy / marketing spin; I guess their vines are treated humanely and allowed to roam free across the valle central. Not like those bastards over at Concha y Toro, who must drive their gas-guzzlers into the vineyard to spray chemicals on grapes that are cruelly tied up for their entire life until brutally crushed to death. My conscience feels better already.

But apart from the political correctness, the wine is actually fantastic. It's mature and earthy but supple, with balanced tannins and great confident black berry and cherry flavours and a long, slightly peppery finish. We had this for dinner with pasta and a simple tomato sauce, and it didn't stand a chance. This would be great to taste on its own, and would be great with all kinds of meat and savory dishes.

I picked this up at the Wine Cellar, but I'm guessing you can find it for around ten bucks somewhere else. The merlot is rated highly. I'm definitely going to try more from Cono Sur. And I don't care whether the workers go home by bike or Hummer.

90 points (a bit of a reach, but I stand by it). $13.95 at the Wine Cellar.

Sonora Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon

I think Sonora Ranch is Mission Hill's cheapo label. I've been looking for confirmation on the internet, but it seems to be a state secret. Nothing on the bottle gives it away either - it's a product of the "Artisan Wine Co." from Oliver (their website is particularly thin and uninformative). Mission Hill is not in Oliver, but I still believe Sonora Ranch is MH's way to pawn off their low-grade product.

Well, wherever it's from, it's cheap and it's good. There is no year on the label, so I'm guessing it's a mix of different "vintages" (using that term loosely). But you know what - it's not bad at all. Despite a hint of grape jelly, it's a fresh and full-bodied cab that probably wouldn't do well in a blind tasting but is still pretty good and very drinkable. I'm on my second glass, just to back up that last point. A little too jammy to be confused with the big dogs, but it has pretty good balance and enough body to hold it's own.

And when you factor in the price, it's a damn good deal. Cheap reds can be a real crapshoot, but this one is pretty reliable. Good with pizza or spaghetti and meatballs.

81 points. $8.50.