May 17, 2012

SOWF #9: Robin Ridge

After Clos du Soleil we drove into downtown Keremeos to find the Thai restaurant that had been recommended to us by a few different people. Benja Thai delivered, and we had some good Thai soup and curry for lunch. It could have been even spicier for our taste, but everything was very flavorful. This is a great place to stop for food when touring the Similkameen valley.

After lunch we decided we were running out of steam, so we made one final stop before heading up the 3A back to Penticton. Our overall impression of Robin Ridge was average, but to be fair this was the end of a long day and right after a big spicy meal. Apart from the wines listed below, they also produce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and something called "Robin's Return".

  • Gewurztraminer 2011 ($19)
Combines intense tropical papaya and pineapple with ripe melon, grapefruit, baking spice and floral notes. Just off-dry with crisp balanced acidity and fresh lemon, grapefruit, mandarin orange, peach and a hint of honey

88 points. Dry, slightly musty but nice.

  • Flamingo 2011 ($18)
Pale pink in colour with intense aromas of stone fruit, ripe golden apples, honey, lemon sherbet and subtle floral notes. The palate is off-dry, balanced with fresh acidity and with flavours of juicy citrus fruits, strawberry, peach, apple and flowers. Pair with a warm summer breeze.

88 points. This is made with the Coronation grape, which I had to look up. It is a labrusca (table grape) hybrid, not vinifera, actually developed in Summerland in the 1970s. It is similar to Concord, but can withstand the cooler Canadian climate better. I thought the wine was pretty good but there was some faint chemical taste that I wrote down as "windex". Either the glass may have been contaminated with some detergent that wasn't completely rinsed out, or my taste buds had given up after fifty tastings, or possibly this is what a Coronation wine tastes like. Probably not the last one, so a retaste may be in order here.

  • Gamay 2010 ($23)
Intense and welcoming aromas of plum, cherry, ripe strawberry and complex floral and meaty notes. The palate has a velvet texture and is elegant yet powerful with ripe red fruits, roasted herbs and great length. The juicy acidity and complexity will leave the palate insisting for more.

88 points. A fairly full-bodied Gamay, heavy on the oak.

  • Reserve Merlot 2009 ($25)
A big brooding wine, deep ruby in colour with intense ripe blackberry, blueberry and plum with toasty toasty vanillin oak and subtle violet notes. The palate is full bodied and structured with sun sweetened brambly berries, grilled herbs, cinnamon, charcuterie and dark chocolate.

88 points. Astringent, full flavour, nice.


And that was the end of our first day of wine tasting.

SOWF #8: Clos du Soleil

Another short hop along Upper Bench Road to Clos du Soleil. Many wine shops have dedicated staff whose only job is to pour. Other wineries are smaller and require more of a "chief cook and bottle-washer" approach to getting all the work done. You know you're at one of the smaller operations when it takes a couple of minutes for someone to come to the tasting room from out in the field. I always feel a little guilty for interrupting their work, but at the same time you know you're going to get an opportunity to talk to someone who knows the intimate details about how the wines were made. Such was the case at Clos du Soleil, where the vineyard manager Jean-Félix arrived and was able to give us a few insights that you can probably only get from someone with a little dirt under their fingernails. This winery appears less concerned about making a big splash and is focused instead on slowly but surely producing the best possible wines. From what I tasted I think they're on the right track.

  • Pinot Blanc 2011 ($19)
Grown near Middle Bench Road in Keremeos by the Baessler family, this fruity and fresh Pinot Blanc opens with a nose of delicate tropical fruit on a backdrop of orchard apple and citrus. The palate is bright and clean, shows great balance and body, and has a pleasantly crisp, refreshing finish – perfect for spring and summer time patio fare or enjoy as a refreshing pre-dinner interlude.  

89 points. Dry, no finish, delicious.

  • Capella 2010 ($25)
The 2010 Capella is elegant and rich, demonstrating the classic notes of this French influenced blend. The nose starts with refreshing gooseberry, lemon rind and honeysuckle. As the bouquet opens, the crisp scents of pear and star fruit join in. In the mouth, the subtle flavours are clean and fresh, adding depth to the aromas.

88 points. Bordeaux Blanc blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Semillon. This tasted off - I think the bottle was open too long and the wine was oxidized. What we tasted does not match the description above. I'd like to try this again to make sure.

  • Fumé Blanc 2010 ($23)
Inspired by the traditional barrel-fermented white wine from the Bordeaux region, our Fumé Blanc is a classic old-world styled white with a new world taste. It opens up on a sweet note of pineapple, vanilla and toast, followed by hints of citrus, orchard apple, honey-comb and the classic mineral touch. In the mouth it is clean, smooth and exhibits a nice balance between bright acidity, oak nuances, and residual sweetness. It finishes long with a slight grassy note from the Sauvignon Blanc grape that is both refreshing and satisfying.

89 points. Recently bottled so a little bottle shock but a very nice wine. Kris really liked it so we purchased this one.

  • Rosé 2011 ($18)
Created with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this rosé is the perfect everyday wine. The nose begins with sun-kissed fresh raspberries, tangy cranberry and vanilla bean. On the palate, the sweet fruit motif continues with the addition of strawberry. A full-body mouth feel and long length make this a perfect food wine. It is summer in a bottle. 

89 points. Fairly complex for a Rosé. Bought it too.

  • Célestiale 2009 ($23)
This juicy and fruit-forward Bordeaux-style red has a Canadian twist of Cabernet Franc and Merlot dominance. It was matured for 18 months in French oak which gives it a glimmer of spice. It softly opens up to bright notes of strawberry, raspberry, sweet red cherries and hints of coffee and chocolate. In the mouth it’s juicy, almost refreshing, and is nicely framed by just the right amount of well integrated tannins and weight. There is great balance and a long finish.

90 points. Bought this as well.

  • Signature 2009 ($40)
The use of all 5 red Bordeaux varietals and maturation for 18 months in French oak before bottling without fining or filtering gives this wine great complexity. It greets the nose with vibrant strawberries and blackberry with hints of sandalwood and spice. As it opens dark cherries, plums and soft hints of caramel, espresso and chocolate come into play. When first tasted, the fresh fruit is echoed on a soft tannin base. After decanting, a balanced yet solid tannin structure frames the fruit and the aromas intensify. This wine shows promising longevity in the cellar.

90 points. Nice, peppery, delicious.

  • Saturn (375 ml) 2010 ($29)
The Sauvignon Blanc grapes for this Select Late Harvest delicacy were intentionally picked overripe in the cold of November. Inspired by the great dessert wine tradition of the Sauternes region of the Bordeaux, this wine exhibits a lovely pale golden hue in the glass. Enticing aromas of ripe pineapple, apricot, honey and citrus rind are followed by a long, hypnotic finish adding toffee and a suggestion of fresh sage. This luscious, balanced creation will pair nicely with foie-gras, creamy blue cheese or a delicate dessert

89 points. Late harvest but not as sweet as you would expect.
             

SOWF #7: Orofino

A very short drive to our next destination, Orofino. Another husband-and-wife team, the Webers are non-farmers from Saskatchewan who decided to relocate to the Similkameen over ten years ago and start making wine. A courageous move, but it seems to be working out quite well judging from the quality of their wines. They have a dog Cooper (so do we), the name probably inspired from their barrels.

Orofino uses their own grapes and those from four other Cawston vineyards plus one in Kaleden just south of Penticton. In addition to the wines tasted below, Orofino also makes a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and a Bordeaux blend called Beleza which appears to be their flagship red. We ended up purchasing two bottles of Syrah.

  • Moscato Frizzante 2011 ($25)
Our first sparkling wine release! This refreshing bubbly is a blend of Muscats, with just a little bit of Riesling and Pinot Gris all grown in Cawston. Some of these vines are over 20 years old. The wine exhibits exotic orange blossom notes and tropical flavours with a clean, dry finish. Our intention was to create a versatile wine that is enjoyable on its own and with a variety of foods. It is a beautiful bottle that we are proud to offer.

88 points. Surprisingly dry considering the Muscat.

  • Riesling 2010 ($20)
The Orofino style of Riesling focuses on opulent flavours and expression of the Similkameen dirt. The wine has a rich mouth feel with a fine balance of acidity with a small amount of residual sugar. Lime, mango, pineapple, green apple.... this wine has a multitude of potential food pairings from baked ham to seafood, to summer salads. The grapes are sourced from our vineyard's old vines, our neighbour's vineyard and a one acre Riesling planting just south of Cawston. This is Riesling terroir! 

88 points. Also quite dry, very drinkable.


  • Pinot Gris 2011 ($20)
The grapes for this wine were grown in 3 separate vineyards. The Hendsbee Vineyard and Blind Creek Vineyard are beside Orofino on the hot Cawston Bench. The Scout Vineyard grapes come from a block grown right beside the Similkameen River about 10kms south of our winery. The wine was pressed after several hours of skin contact and was then fermented in stainless steel. It shows orchard fruit with melons and a pronounced minerality. Very dry with good acidity makes this an excellent food wine. 275 cases produced. 

88 points. Dry, mineral, heavy mouthfeel. My favorite of the whites.


  • Red Bridge Merlot 2010 ($25)
The premium Merlot grapes for this wine were grown by Chris Scott in his fabulous 5 acre Oak Knoll vineyard. It was aged in the finest American and French barrels for 16 months and then bottled unfiltered. This is the sixth vintage we have put Oak Knoll Merlot exclusively into Red Bridge! This vintage shows big aromatics and complex flavours. This label has become a "go to" wine over the years and this vintage will not disappoint! 

89 points. Medium oak, cherry, actually a little sweet but fresh. Little finish. Very nice.


  • Syrah 2010 ($29)
This single vineyard syrah is grown just south of the Cawston Bench at the picturesque Scout Vineyard. The grapes are grown in rocky soils and cropped to under 2 tons per acre. The resulting wine is awash with brambly fruit, gamey notes and black pepper playing a supporting role. Aged 15 months in French and American oak barrels and is silky and very drinkable. A terrific follow-up to our gold medal winning 2009 syrah!

90 points. There's a lot going on in here, red berries and peppery. Unique.


May 16, 2012

SOWF #6: Crowsnest Vineyards

Well, you knew the hot streak couldn't last forever. Just around the corner we found Crowsnest Vineyards on Surprise Drive. It was a surprise all right, but not a pleasant one. Actually, the wines weren't all that bad. The winemaking is definitely Germanic, and reminded us of Gehringer Brothers in style. The Rieslings and the Gewurz were true to form although drier than their German cousins. If you like German wines then I think you would enjoy a visit to Crowsnest, but it's not really my cup of tea.

Crowsnest is also heavily into other activities. They run a restaurant, bakery and guesthouse, and even host a Harley Davidson riders' club. The website seems out of date (although there are recent events posted), so I didn't reproduce their wine notes as they don't correspond to the wines we actually tasted.

  • Chardonnay  ($18)

88 points. Unoaked, nice crispness.
 
  • Gewurztraminer  ($19)

88 points. 1 on the sweetness scale. Pretty good, dry Germanic style, honey.
 
  • Riesling 2011 ($20)

88 points. Apple cider taste, tart.
 
  • Riesling 2009  

88 points.

  • Pinot Noir  ($23)

87 points. Stewed strawberry.
 
  • Merlot 2008 ($21)

87 points. More strawberry, definitely not Kris' favorite.
 


 

SOWF #5: Eau Vivre

Our next stop on our Similkameen journey was Eau Vivre. This is a very unassuming little winery, presumably a husband and wife operation although I have very little background on this place. I think they only make four wines, and we got to try them all. Holy smoke - what a find! And for around twenty bucks these were some of the very best value wines we came across.

Our rule of thumb is to try to purchase one bottle per winery, since they all have to be brought back on the plane. We bought three here, everything but the Gewurz (I just can't bring myself to call it "goo"). We have a family vacation planned for the Okanagan in July; we may just have to drag the kids out to Cawston to scoop up a few more bottles.


  • Gewurztraminer 2009 ($17)
Light in colour, with intense nose of white flowers, orange blossoms and candied fruit.  The palate is equally balanced with soft acids and lush fruit mouth feel that is produced in the classic dry but fruity style.  Designed with medium body and plush rich fruit this wine has the profile of a much sweeter wine.  This small lot production of 2009 Gewurztraminer is made from 100% Similkameen grapes.  With only 200 cases produced, this very popular wine is building a following of fans and will surely sell out.

89 points. Floral but not syrupy. Fresh.

  • Chardonnay 2008 ($18)
A nice pale straw colour shows that this wine has a great aging potential. The nose smells of honey, with a baked pastry component, leading to apple pie and pear. Hints of citrus and stone fruit on the nose as well. The palette is intense and balanced, with apple and lemon curd, white peach and nectarines, showing a full round mouth feel but enough acidity to give it good length and freshness. Very versatile food wine, that can pair well with seafood, but has the acidity to cut through creamy dishes as well. 

90 points. Complex, sweet and tart, bright, good acidity balance.

  • Pinot Noir 2008 ($19)
On the nose it is constantly developing, starting with typical cherry and cranberry before leading into more earthy tones and the darker side of this wonderful variety. The longer this is open the more complex it becomes as the fruit nose subsides and the leathery and soy notes come forward. Built with some considerable structure, despite having very little oak on nose or palette. The wine has great intensity and length, tannins taking the fruit and acidity long into the finish. Great balance. Drinking well now and will age wonderfully for years to come. 

91 points. Only two other wineries had a 91 point wine on our tour - Fairview and Laughing Stock. That's pretty exclusive company for Eau Vivre. "Warm, smooth, chocolate and sweet tones. Wow." (That's a direct quote from my notes.) A preposterous value.

  • Cabernet Franc 2009 ($22)
Fermented on the skins for 18 days to extract deep dark color, this wine was aged in French Oak barrels. The aromas boldly convey the grape variety's floral and herbal character, in this case suggesting tobacco and spice. On the palate spice and pepper enhance those characteristics and finish dry. This wines style has serious charm and complexity and will excite fans of cool-climate Cab Franc fans. Only 270 cases produced in 2009 from 100% Okanagan Valley grapes.

90 points.
      

SOWF #4: Seven Stones

I can't remember the last time we visited the Similkameen valley, but it's been a few years. It's seems like a long way to go but it's only 20 minutes west of Osoyoos on highway 3, and not much longer to drive from Keremeos up to Penticton. There are maybe ten wineries out here, including two fruit wineries. Some of the best wines we tasted the entire weekend were from Similkameen, and I suspect they might be growing grapes that are as good or better than the Okanagan. If you've never been out here, or it's been a while, you won't regret taking the extra few minutes drive to check out the wineries in Cawston and Keremeos.

A quick travel note: if you're driving west from Osoyoos, you have to check out Spotted Lake about ten minutes along the Crowsnest. This is a small lake with high concentrations of minerals and salt in the water that somehow form large circles on the surface. It's truly unique and worth a stop for a picture or two.

Seven Stones was the first of our six stops on our loop. There is a whole story about the seven stones of the Similkameen, but the winery website is down right now so I don't have the details. Something about glaciers and native legends. Instead of doing any serious research, I stole a photo from another website of the mural in the Seven Stones wineshop showing the seven stones on a map of the valley. Now then, on to business: the wines we tried here were mostly outstanding. I can't explain why but I got the feeling that the terroir here produces some outstanding fruit. The combination and complexity of flavours here was quite amazing.

  • Pinot Rosé 2010 ($19)
Intense strawberry aromas; a delicate balance of citrus and exotic fruit flavors on the palate along with a pleasing natural acidity and minerality and a soft dry finish. This wine is reminiscent of the Rosés found in the south of France. Perfect for the deck!

88 points. I found this one a bit musty, with some grapefruit in addition to the strawberry.

  • Chardonnay 2009 ($25)
The 2009 vintage is a bit softer and creamier than the 2008 vintage yet it retains the same vivid mouth-feel and delicate balance of citrus and tropical fruit flavors permeated with an earthy minerality that had become the signature of our Chardonnays. Sur-lies aging and barrel fermentation give this wine a luscious toasty and buttery finish.

90 points. If I recall there were two different yeasts involved in the making. I thought I tasted some pineapple. Long, lingering, creamy finish. Beautiful. We brought back this one.

  • Row 128 Merlot 2009 ($25)
Aged for 17 months in French and American oak barrels Row 128 Merlot offers seductive aromas of cherry, mint, olive and leather followed by a soft mouth-feel and flavors of plum, chocolate and blueberry .The finish is smooth and long lasting. 

90 points. Wish we'd bought this one too. A very unique and interesting Merlot. I did indeed taste most of the flavours listed above, including olive.

  • Cabernet Franc 2009 ($28)
The nose features fragrances of plum, black pepper, raspberry and toasty vanilla. Layers of elegant and well structured flavors of  raspberry , chocolate and coffee on the mid-palate are followed by a soft spicy finish.  Aged 17 months in new French oak barrels.

89 points. Feisty, peppery, lively, bold.

  • Meritage 2008 ($32)
This blend consists of 58% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot aged 17 months in new and 1 year old French oak barrels. The 2008 Meritage has round juicy flavors, a soft velvety mid-palate and an elegant finish that is prolonged by fine grained tannins and reveals hints of chocolate, espresso and raspberry. 

89 points.

  • Syrah 2009 ($35)
Enticing aromas of smoked meat and white pepper on the nose; layers of ripe blackberry, spicy licorice and bittersweet chocolate on the palate; well integrated tannins and a long smooth finish. 17 months in new French oak barrels. Small lot production 

88 points. Kris liked this more than I did, likely the pepper. I remember it tasting like tart cherry juice.
           

May 15, 2012

SOWF #3: Young & Wyse

It's not the Young & Wyse Winery, or Cellars, or Vineyard: it's a Collection. Hmm. Well, seems a little vague but I guess it's different. A partnership on several levels between Stephen Wyse, whose family runs Burrowing Owl, and Michelle Young. Fortunately their surnames form an interesting and provocative combination, unlike the ill-fated partnership of John Old and Susan Idiotic. Apart from the name, the wines are terrific and it's worth a visit to the south end of Osoyoos if you're in the area.

I have to confess that even though I have a few notes, I don't seem to have written down any scores for the four wines we tasted. It was not even noon when we tasted. We purchased the Amber and the Cab Sauv. When we open them up I may come back and update this entry. But my recollection is that all of them were very good, in the 89 point range. Here are the winemakers' notes.

  • Pinot Gris 2011 ($20)
An intriguing nose that combines cantaloupe and apple blossom aromas with hints of stonefruit, citrus and dried summer herbs. The palate is dry with crisp, refreshing acidity launching into an intense combination of lemon, nectarine, apple, grapefruit and a complex white pepper note that lingers on the long finish.

  • Amber 2011 ($20)
This special blend is named after our daughter Amber. The jasmine and rose petal aromatics of Viognier and Gewurztraminer combine intriguingly with the citrus, grapefruit and anise notes of Pinot Gris. Aromas of orange, cinnamon, and melon add further complexity. The palate is dry combining apple, pineapple and apricot flavours with lemon and orange notes. The finish is long and complex with essence of gingerbread and minerality.

  • Merlot 2010 ($22)
A bouquet of fruit, floral and spice aromas, displaying black cherry, red raspberry, lilac, exotic spice and even a touch of minerality. On the mouth, the wine coats and lingers with a sumptuous viscosity and beautifully ripe tannins. Bottled without fining or filtration.

  • Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($27)
This Cabernet has distinct flavours of black currant, blueberry, blackberry and cassis with enticing aromas of mocha and nutmeg. Notes of smoke, cedar and tobacco round out the lingering finish. Bottled without fining or filtration.

[Edit May 16: Well, that didn't take long. We opened this up last night. A very nice cab, robust but smooth and it does indeed have a long finish as advertised. If we didn't already drink it, it would improve with age. 90 points.]

SOWF #2: Nk'Mip

Nk'Mip (pronounced in-ka-meep) is a desert cultural centre, luxury resort and spa, golf course, winery and an aboriginal success story all at once. We'll focus on the wine, but the Nk'Mip Resort website has lots of interesting info. We even looked into investing in one of the Spirit Ridge strata suites a while back.

Nk'Mip manages to win a fair bit of recognition for their wines. Overall I find them good but nothing that has ever knocked my socks off. Generally at Nk'Mip, the more unpronouncable the name the more expensive the wine. We hadn't been here for a few years and things change, so it's a good idea to go back to the source once in a while to see (and taste) what's going on. Again, winemaker's comments in regular text, my notes and scores in italic.

  • Pinot Blanc 2010 ($17)
This wine is bright and lively with an explosion of citrus and orchard notes followed by a crisp, racy finish. Generous notes of apple with an underlying mineral nuance complete this well-balanced wine.

88 points.

  • Riesling 2010 ($18)
Classic granny smith apple and crisp, fresh citrus notes give way to a gentle layering of luscious orchard fruit and honeydew melon. Dry in style, the flavours are well balanced and are supported by a crisp, refreshing finish. 

88 points.


  • Chardonnay 2010 ($17)
The Chardonnay grapes were stainless steel fermented and 40% of the vintage was aged in French oak barrels for 10 months while 60% remained in stainless steel fermentors to retain a crisp, fruit forward flavour with a smooth finish.

Fragrant granny smith apple and summer fruit are joined by fresh pineapple and melon layers that lead into a rounded expression of butterscotch and vanilla bean.


88 points.


  • Pinot Noir 2010 ($20)
The inviting nose displays elements of luscious Okanagan black cherry and plum with a hint of rosemary spice. The soft tannic structure is very approachable with substantial berry and spice flavours despite its delicacy. A liquid silk texture leaves a soft finish on the palate.

88 points.


  • Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2009 ($25)
Extended lees contact gives depth and complexity with rich and nutty flavour, offering lots of caramel, marzipan and pear. Enticing and aromatic with subtle layering of citrus is followed by a lingering mineral finish. 

89 points. The best wine I tasted here, almost a 90 - delicious!


  • Qwam Qwmt Meritage 2008 ($30)
This Meritage is a blend of 69% Merlot, 28.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2.5% Cabernet Franc grapes. This wine exhibits an intense ruby colour with aromas and flavours of mint, chocolate, tobacco and cassis with a well-structured palate and a long toasty finish.

89 points.


  • Qwam Qwmt Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($30)
Rich with dried black fruit and cassis wrapped in toasty spicy cedar, this fully structured Cabernet Sauvignon leads the palate to contemplate complex flavours of berry, vanilla, coffee, capsicum and cherry.  

88 points.


  • Mer'r'iym 2008 ($50)
Mer’r’iym is a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot epitomizing balance, respect and dedication. The 2008 Mer’r’iym Meritage is the result of our tireless pursuit of excellence at Nk’Mip vineyards. We combined only the best blocks of grapes with some of the finest French and American oak barrels in an effort to produce a wine of genuine elegance and finesse. 

89 points.